The geological time-line of Kauai stretches back over 5 million years, making it the oldest inhabited land mass of the Hawaiian archipelago. A lush, tropical paradise, its verdant beauty has rightfully earned it the nickname ‘The Garden Isle’. But there is so much more to this island than just stunning vistas. A rich, storied past beckons with tales passed down through the generations - traditions that are as anchored in history as they are shrouded in mystery. These ancient narratives illuminate all that the ‘separate kingdom’ (known as Taua’i in the native dialect) has to offer.
The Little People of Kauai
Outsiders have long believed that the fabled tribe of the Menehune were nothing more than whimsical figments of folklore. Today's scholars wonder if those magical forest dwellers weren't actual descendents of the Marquesens - the first settlers to arrive on the Hawaiian Islands. They are described as standing a mere two feet tall. (Some accounts place their height at two-three inches!)
They were so highly skilled in both engineering and construction even Time could not erase all the evidence of their handiwork:
- The Alekoko Fishpond and the remnants of the Menehune Ditch are but two still-standing examples of their building expertise.
- According to legend these industrious artisans would work only if unobserved, and then only at night.
Once upon a time the Menehune population on Kauai was said to number almost half-a-million, but these 'little people' were forced to leave the island by their king who became wary of intermarriage with the Hawaiians.
Dame Dr. Jane Resture, who holds a PhD in anthropology, offers up this intriguing statistic on her Oceania webpage on Hawaii, titled “Hawaii - Kaua'i Mythology: The Mythical Menehune of Kaua'i”: 65 residents from the town of Wainiha cited Menehune as their nationality in a census done in the early part of the 1800's!
Rites of Life and Death on the Banks of the Wailua River
Winding past hallowed grounds of yester-year, the Wailua River cuts a twenty -mile-long sacred swath across the island:
- On the southern shore of the Wailua - near the river mouth - uncovered boulders bear the markings of history with petroglyphs in human, fish and geometric shapes. Primitive grinding surfaces are obvious on some.
“There is life in the stone and death in the stone”. This Hawaiian saying, as noted by the renowned archeologist Dr. William Kenji ‘Pila’ Kikuchi in “Anthropology and Archeology on Kauai” accurately reflects the animistic beliefs inherent to this Polynesian sub-culture:
- Holoholo Ku Heiau, located on the east side of Wailua River State Park, was a place both feared and revered by the island’s early inhabitants. This numinous site was the setting for ritualistic human sacrifice. Conversely there is also a birthing stone here that was said to impart great mana or divine power to a child born at it.
- There are seven Heiaus’ - places of worship - along the Wailua River.
But the journey is not always about what was, sometimes the river leads to what will be:
- Spirits of the recently deceased travel up the Wailua River in a final crossing that ends on the west side of the island. It is there, at Haeleele Cliffs, over Polilhale Beach that a portal between the mortal and spirit worlds exists where they can leap into the next life.
Hula: The Forbidden Dance
The ruins of Ke Ahu A Laka Halau Hula - a temple dedicated to Laka, the Goddess of the Hula - lie just off an unmarked path near the North Shore's Ke'e Beach. There, on a cliff with a visual expanse so broad the actual curvature of the earth can be seen, hula dancers still come to pay homage to their protector. The echos of ancient drums whisper as the dancers sway to the beat of sacred rhythms.
This is a place of powerful mana:
- The Hula was originally regarded as a form of prayer, intended to bring about fertility in nature.
- Following a strict code of behavior, early dancers-in training could not cut their hair or nails, eat certain foods, or engage in sexual activity.
- Missionary's banned the dance in the 1820's because they considered it too immodest.
What You Find in Hawaii...Leave in Hawaii
There are warnings - both posted and passed on - against taking a 'souvenir' when visiting sacred places in Hawaii. It is unlawful to remove anything from a historical site - violators face a $10,000 fine if caught. And if man's law does not offer enough of a deterrent, there is always Pele's promise: according to superstitions the Hawaiian Volcano (or Fire) Goddess -being fiercely protective of her islands - has vowed bad luck will follow anyone reckless enough to sneak even a stone from its historic resting place. The accuracy of this legend is borne out by the number of rocks returned via postal service every year by tourists seeking to reverse personal misfortunes.
There are so many more mysterious and marvelous places just waiting to be discovered on this enchanted isle. Barking sands, bell stones... Let the legends lead the way.
 |
